Monday, May 23, 2011

Cracker Country


The third game was in Jacksonville. Now, I don't much care for the New South. The New South is all about Real Housewives, NFL expansion teams, and Republicans. It's about computer-generated "country" music, mega-churches and privatized prisons. It's Krispy Kreme and white SUVs and Nicky Haley.
The South I love is air so thick it's like breathing through a sponge. It's honeysuckle and old ladies in house coats selling tomato starts. It's Brother Claude Ely and Jim Graham and Edna Lewis.
It's stories my friend Cecil would tell about growing up a genuine cracker in south Georgia and north Florida. It's how Florida, or parts of it, really is a Southern state.
So there I was, determined to find the soul in Jacksonville, FLA. Turns out I didn't have to look too hard. Cecil grows misty talking about the seafood of his youth. Poorly lit cinder block buildings selling fried shrimp and oysters with a side of Frank's hot sauce. Yessir, sign me up.

Menu Oct 18, 2010
Fried Gulf shrimp with cocktail sauce
Hushpuppies with dipping sauce (glorified mayo, of course)
Cabbage-cauliflower coleslaw
Stewed tomatoes
Edna Lewis' green bean salad
Piper's Ican'tbelieveshe'sayankee Coconut cream pie

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